2019年第一次在日本過暑假,RK趁機規劃了一場國內旅遊。這次的目的地是日劇「小海女」的聖地岩手縣久慈市!說到小海女就得不提到超美味的うに (海膽),其實當初決定要去久慈很大一部份的原因,也是因為想品嚐劇中出現的現剝海膽!

在當地我們除了海膽也嚐到了好多美味的海鮮 (不愧為臨海的縣市),也被超級美的海岸療癒了身心。雖然只花了短短一週計畫了3天2夜的行程,但這3天真的是暑假最美好的回憶之一。

第一天

出發小海女聖地 岩手縣久慈市!

岩手縣位於日本本州的北方,屬於東北地區,簡單來說離東京真的很遠。這次我們選擇了最便宜的交通方式,搭乘10個小時的夜間高速巴士,從新宿到盛岡,再從盛岡轉成路面巴士才終於抵達久慈市這個小市區。單程的車資這樣也花了約8000円,也因此交通費佔了這次旅行花費的一大部分。

一路上看著從都市到鄉下的景色變化,真的覺得非常有趣。尤其是轉成路面電車後,可能因為時間偏早 (約早上8點),很少有人上下車。路旁也都是田地,甚至車子還有一度開到山上經過溪流。路上的種種變化,都讓過去只會去熱門景點旅遊的我們,很好奇久慈到底是個什麼樣的地方。

最後,經歷了半天的交通後,我們終於抵達這次旅行的目的地久慈市!一下車就看到了非常具有當地特色的JR車站,此外事前做過功課的RK也很快就鎖定了各個以小海女為主題的佈景,例如:掛著小海女海報的觀光協會大樓、以小海女為主題的鐵門藝術等等。

jr
JR久慈站(下面是海膽)
kankou
觀光協會的大樓掛有小海女海報

開始朝聖小海女囉!

千里迢迢來到久慈的我們一下車,廢話不多說就開始到處亂拍。在久慈車站附近有許多小海女相關的佈景,這也顯示了小海女對於當地觀光發展的重要性,想必當初播出的時候這裡肯定是人山人海。RK首先到了三陸鐵道的久慈車站,這裡是小海女第一集北三陸鐵道開通時的拍攝場地,不知道大家對於那個剪綵儀式還有沒有印象?

此外在車站也可以找到小海女的蹤跡。連接車站和月台的通路,牆上貼了許多小海女當時拍攝時的照片,甚至還有暖桌電車的立牌供大家拍照,小海女粉絲RK在這裡就逛了接將近一小時。

離開車站後,下一站是車站附近的小海女博物館!光是外面的招牌就已經讓人開始回味小海女的種種,一進門之後就傳來熟悉的主題曲,以及アキちゃん和ユイちゃん唱的「潮騒のメモリー」,讓RK在觀賞展覽物品的同時陷入童年回憶。

展覽物中最讓人驚喜的是久慈地區的模型,能讓人一目了然各個景點的地理位置。此外在博物館內也有發放觀光用的地圖,朝聖者們不能錯過!

每天限定20份的海膽便當!

在博物館逛著逛著,轉眼間就到中午了。一早就開始觀光行程的RK肚子早就餓扁了,但不擔心找不到好吃的,因為我們早就先打電話訂好午餐啦!在三陸鐵道久慈車站內,有在販賣每天限量20份的海膽便當 (印象中是1400円),通常要先打電話到店裡預約才有辦法吃到。

這個在各大美食網站都有出現的海膽便當果然名不虛傳,光是外包裝就讓人感覺到十分高級。打開之後更讓RK驚喜,蒸過的海膽這樣鋪在飯上形成一個金色的大平台,上面醃菜的裝飾更是畫龍點睛,海膽便當的賣相滿分!味道的部分更是奢侈,一個人獨佔這麼多海膽讓有種罪惡感。雖然沒有生海膽這麼多汁,但蒸過後的海膽淡淡的香甜又別有風情!CP值的話,雖然飯量不多沒辦法吃到飽飽飽,但就嘗鮮來說RK給滿分!

海膽便當
海膽便當外包裝
海膽便當

琥珀博物館 & 琥珀開採體驗!

飽餐一頓的RK,下一站前往的是久慈琥珀博物館!不知道大家還記不記得在小海女中,一直在擦琥珀的勉叔呢?這個博物館最特別的不是有很多礦石、很多琥珀做的藝術品,而是有開採琥珀、DIY琥珀飾品的體驗。這些體驗活動都可以事前在網路上預約,而且價錢也只要約1500円左右,RK覺得CP值非常高!

博物館的門口放了一個排行榜,紀錄著曾經挖到大型琥珀的客人,據說只要能挖到1kg以上的琥珀,博物館會用10万円買下它進行研究,更不用說如果挖到恐龍化石或是保有昆蟲的琥珀囉!

看著排行榜就讓人燃起熊熊的鬥志,RK蓄勢待發的搭著接駁車到琥珀開採的現場。聽完說明之後我們死命地用工具又敲又挖的努力了一小時,結果K挖到了超迷你的琥珀、R則只有挖到煤炭,果然開採礦石不是這麼簡單的事…。

雖然有點沮喪,不過之後的琥珀飾品DIY又重新燃起們的興致。用博物館提供的,已經先切好的琥珀,磨出漂亮的月亮形掛飾(可以體會勉叔的心情)。個人很滿意成品!

「寿々㐂」第一夜的海鮮大餐!

在博物館肉體勞動之後時間也晚了,肚子又開始咕咕叫。於是我們上網找了評價高的居魚屋「寿々㐂(すずき)」飽餐一頓。我們特別選了櫃檯的位置,這樣可以很清楚的看到老闆料理的手藝。剛開始當然要先來杯冰冰涼涼的啤酒,再來慢慢看菜單點餐。

RK點了生魚片的拼盤,炸章魚、烤魚(是一種叫做どんこ的魚)以及收尾用的茶泡飯等等。其中印象很深刻的是,師父為了切生魚片,直接在我們面前現殺了一條魚。看師傅熟練地把皮剝去、骨頭取出、切下可以食用的部分,默默感到崇拜(不會料理的K)。

居魚屋「寿々㐂」
居魚屋「寿々㐂」
「寿々㐂」生鮮拼盤
「寿々㐂」生鮮拼盤

這一餐兩人吃了7000円左右,果然居酒屋到哪都不會太便宜。但是考慮到吃了很多很新鮮的海鮮,超多汁的炸章魚,以及肉很爆滿的烤魚,吃的非常飽,所以在RK心中CP值還是偏高的!有機會去久慈市的話,我們也推薦各位去嚐鮮看看。

晚上我們回到了定好的旅館休息。這次沒有選擇太高級的旅館,而是評價約3.5星的日式旅宿,因為我們想把住宿的錢省下來投資在食費上(實際上也吃了很多好料)!活動了一天累壞的兩人,隔天一早就要到海邊騎車,所以很快就洗洗睡休息了。

第二天

自行車遊超美小袖海岸!

睡飽後RK一早就去車站借腳踏車 (三陸鐵道有租借服務,一天約800円),準備沿著海岸線騎車到海女抓海膽的地方!我們從久慈市區出發,騎了約15分鐘抵達美麗的小袖海岸。從這裡開始沿著海岸線騎大約30分鐘才會抵達小袖海女中心,一路上也沒什麼車子,因此RK很悠哉的邊看風景邊踩著踏板兜風。

小袖海岸的海水真的很乾淨,近看甚至會有種是翡翠色的感覺。我們在每個Google Map上標的景點都會下車看看,其中有個赤浜展望台,從那裡眺望的海景很美,可以靜靜的看著浪花拍打在岸上,覺得心靈被沈澱。

此外還有些地方甚至可以走下去到海邊,我們甚至看到有人在那裡撿海帶,撿好後拿到公路上曬乾。如果沒有看到海邊的人,一定會很疑惑為什麼路上會有海帶吧!

在接近目的地時,還有一個叫做吊鐘岩的景點,據說是拍攝夕陽時的絕佳地點,因為夕陽能剛好被捕捉在岩石中間的洞中。可惜這次沒能待到這麼晚,只能上網查查圖片過癮了。

騎到海岸線的終點後就能看到各式各樣的小海女拍攝地紀念碑,以及出現在劇中令人熟悉的場景。其中最有趣的非「じぇじぇじぇ (結結結)」的發祥紀念碑莫屬。「じぇじぇじぇ」是小海女在驚訝的時候會脫口而出的詞,並在2013年被選為流行語,可見小海女的影響力!

小海女現抓海膽 極品生海膽丼!

抵達小袖海女中心時,已經接近午餐時間了。看到在門口剝海膽的海女們,不禁開始期待待會可以吃到現剝的海膽。(當時是9月的平日,錯過了假日現場抓海膽表演的季節。但海女還是會下水抓海膽)開心的爬上階梯到3樓的「海女Cafe」,沒想到映入眼簾的是生海膽丼 SOLD OUT

不知道被何方神聖捷足先登了。但還好一問之下,樓下海女正在剝的海膽還夠,可以幫我們做兩碗生海膽丼!跌到谷底的心情馬上又衝上雲霄,像坐雲霄飛車一樣。5分鐘後上菜,光用看的就口水直流。飯上奢侈的鋪滿了在發光的生海膽,和車站的海膽便當不同,生海膽顯得更多汁、更飽滿

小海女抓海膽的場景
小海女抓海膽的景點
生海膽丼
超奢侈生海膽丼

實際上生海膽的口感,和蒸過的海膽非常不一樣,吃起來很綿密,甚至有點像是豆腐。而味道部分,比起蒸海膽淡淡的香,生海膽的甜味更強烈、更直接,也能吃到一點點的海味,和少許的芥末、醬油、紫蘇葉是絕配!雖然這樣一碗生海膽丼要2300円,實在說不上便宜,但一生可能就只來這麼一次,因此該吃的還是吃、該花的錢還是花!

吃完生海膽丼後,RK心滿意足的開始在海女中心附近散步。看到了海女抓海膽的海域 (和小海女劇中是同個地方)、アキちゃん跳海的燈塔、暖爐先生待著的制高點的監視小屋等,看著看著又陷入小海女的漩渦中。不知不覺在這裡休息了2個多小時,是該前往下個景點的時間了,所以兩人又依依不捨的騎上自行車沿著小袖海岸回到久慈市區。

可愛的監視小屋吊牌
可愛的監視小屋吊牌
劇中出現的燈塔
小海女劇中出現的燈塔

「山海里」超豪華琥珀丼!

計劃這次旅行時,RK就決定要把當地Top 10的美食都吃過一遍,因此排名第二的「山海里」當然不容錯過。這是在久慈相當有名的餐廳,標榜利用當地食材做地道料理。這次我們點的是在小海女中不斷出現的「まめぶ (丸子湯?)」及名字有趣的「琥珀丼」。

まめぶ就像劇中形容的一樣,鹹鹹又甜甜,味道實在不知道該說好吃還是好笑。來久慈旅遊絕對值得嚐嚐看!而名字很有趣的琥珀丼,其實是由4層料所構成的,最上層是各種生魚片及干貝,第二層是海膽丼,第三層是海帶,最底層是烤牛肉。吃的同時,就像在挖寶的感覺,因此命名為琥珀丼。雖然價錢不太親民,要價2800円在右,但份量非常的足,男生一個人吃也可以飽餐一頓。

吃完這餐後我們到咖啡廳「モカ」喝飲料、吃有名的蛋三明治。但K到這覺得吃的實在有點太飽,因此我們就先回到旅宿休息去了。

小海女劇中的まめぶ
小海女劇中的まめぶ
超豪華琥珀丼
超豪華的琥珀丼

第三天

「千草」老牌拉麵店 排骨拉麵!

第三天早上,在充分的休息過後,RK從旅宿Check out然後將行李寄在JR久慈站的置物櫃中。其實第三天沒有什麼特別重要的行程,因此我們先到了當地美食排行第三的「千草」,久慈的老牌拉麵店,吃招牌的排骨拉麵,邊吃邊想要怎麼度過這天。

只能說不愧是有名的老牌拉麵店,排骨雖然是很油的食物,但這碗味道濃厚的拉麵吃起來卻不會覺得油膩,真的很好吃!尤其是在連續兩天大啖海鮮之後,突然吃到油脂比較豐富的排骨,讓肉顯得格外的多汁,RK都讚不絕口。而且這樣的一碗麵只要不到800円,在我們心中CP值非常高

千草 老牌拉麵
千草 老牌拉麵
千草排骨拉麵

「堀內大橋」電車與海景

RK最後討論的結果,決定要把觀光地圖上剩下的景點跑一跑,而第一個目的地就是「袖が浜」(實際地名叫做堀內)。選擇這個景點主要有兩個原因,第一個是因為那裡是劇中ユイちゃん大喊「我想成為偶像!」的地方,想朝聖看看。第二則是因為想搭搭看三陸鐵道,從列車上看看途中的海景。(其實アキちゃん當初出發去東京時也是搭著三陸鐵道走的,列車還會在奶奶揮舞著旗子幫她打氣的地點稍微停下來,讓遊客可以拍照)

所以我們就出發了。但抵達了目的地的「堀內」車站後就發現大事不妙,因為回程的車子兩小時才有一班。然後就回想起剛剛下車時,其他乘客異樣的眼神,想必沒有人會在平日的下午在堀內站下車吧。但為時已晚,我們只好找找附近有沒有其他地方可以去,剛好在告示板上看到1公里外有個叫「堀內大橋」的景點,所以便前往看看。

袖が浜
小海女「袖が浜」站牌
「我想成為偶像!!」
「我想成為偶像!!」

結論上來說,其實這個景點沒有這麼值得來…。雖然確實能和劇中用同樣的視角,拍到以海為背景的三陸鐵道。但如果要拍到電車經過的畫面,勢必又會再錯過一個班次,除非是時間很多的人否則應該不會為了這個畫面在這裡停留4個小時。此外堀內大橋走起來不是太穩(車子開過去會晃),讓RK走到腳有點軟,有懼高症的話絕對不推薦。

堀內大橋
讓人心驚驚的堀內大橋
以海為背景的三陸鐵道

「もぐらんぴあ」水族館

從堀内大橋回到市區後還有一些時間,RK前往了早上討論的第二個目的地,當地的水族館「もぐらんぴあ」。結論上來說,這個景點也沒有這麼值得來。首先,交通實在不太方便,從市區要先搭10多分鐘的公車到最近的站之後,再走個15分鐘才能抵達。此外,內裝、生物等等和其他地方的水族館比起來略遜一籌。當初是看到它標榜水族館蓋在海裡面,覺得新奇才想來參觀看看,不過內裝沒有充分發揮這個特色,室內感還是非常重。

不過必須說,久慈的人們真的很善良。先從載我們到車站的公車司機說起,通常不太會和乘客對話的日本司機,竟然很貼心的提醒我們沒有回程的公車,真的要下車沒有問題嗎。再來,水族館的人員也很貼心的幫助人生地不熟的RK叫計程車回市區。種種都讓人很感動日本還是很溫暖的!

「幸」江戶前壽司初體驗

為了幫RK的第一次自助旅遊劃下完美的句點,我們選了一家不會轉的壽司「幸」來做為我們在久慈的最後一餐。這是兩人第一次吃不會轉的壽司,進店之前還上網查了很多資料,就怕不小心做出什麼失禮的行為。我們大約在晚上6點走進店裡,這時候還空無一人,我們便選了師傅面前的位置,觀賞師傅捏壽司的手藝。

關於詳細的品項,RK會再寫一篇美食分享另外做介紹!

這餐RK抱著這家店可能沒機會再來的心情,看到想吃的就直接點來吃,最後共花了12000円,是3天之中最貴的一餐。不過兩人吃的都非常心滿意足,對我們來說是最棒的收尾,CP值當然是滿分!

結語

不會轉的壽司吃完後,回程的夜間高速巴士也差不多到站了。RK這3天在久慈真的玩得非常盡興,尤其平常都在東京生活,很少能遠離喧囂,到人口密度低的鄉下放鬆一下。久慈有很美的海景、有好吃的海鮮、人們也很友善,讓我們用3天製造了許多美好的回憶。也很感謝有小海女這部日劇,讓我們有機會認識、造訪久慈!

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【河口湖】日出逆富士!超狂河口湖半日遊

象徵著日本的富士山,是許多人來日本旅遊的首選。其中河口湖因為能近距離觀賞富士山美景、以及湖面上的「逆富士」,更是超人氣的景點。之前K看到有朋友到河口湖周邊遊玩,就想起自己去年冬天在河口湖半日遊的經驗,這篇要來介紹K當時為了看日出的逆富士,夜遊河口湖的瘋狂故事!

picture of ice cream

【超市美食】RK真心推薦5種日本超市冰品

進入6月的日本也開始熱起來了,說到夏天怎麼能少了消暑又好吃的「冰」!喜歡來日本旅遊的朋友一定知道日本的冰有多好吃,而且在台灣要買到像明治的抹茶冰淇淋等等,日本進口的冰又很貴!

生活在日本的RK也最愛吃冰了,日本的冰對我們來說也是日本美食之一。這裡RK嚴選出了5種我們最愛的,在日本的超市就能買到的冰品,大家夏天來日本旅遊的時候也可以參考看看喔!

RK

哈囉!我們是RK!我們是住在東京的大學生,喜歡唱歌、假日出去旅遊、吃好吃的日本美食。歡迎來用我們的視角一起看日本:)

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