象徵著日本的富士山,是許多人來日本旅遊的首選。其中河口湖因為能近距離觀賞富士山美景、以及湖面上的「逆富士」,更是超人氣的景點。之前K看到有朋友到河口湖周邊遊玩,就想起自己去年冬天在河口湖半日遊的經驗,這篇要來介紹K當時為了看日出的逆富士,夜遊河口湖的瘋狂故事!

啟程

2019年,過年前的冬天,有個從小認識的好朋友J來東京旅遊。當時是東京最冷的時期,甚至有幾天下雨,溫度和濕度都滿足的情況下卻遲遲不下雪。難得J來玩,不看個雪再回家真的很可惜。為了圓他的看雪夢,K提議往北方前進或往山上跑碰碰運氣。討論的結果,我們決定到河口湖看雪和富士山,兩種享受一次滿足!

當時K還有語言學校的課要上,只好挑在J回國前一天的週五晚上出發。一切都決定的很突然,沒有詳細的計畫,沒有預定任何住宿。週五晚上8點,我們就這樣從新宿乘著夜間巴士,向目的地河口湖前進。出發過後1小時,隱約能看到車窗外開始出現積雪,對K來說也是搬到日本後第一次看到的雪,不禁讓人開始期待這一場小冒險的開始。

夜晚的河口湖

巴士約在晚上10點抵達河口湖。這時間的河口湖站已經沒有電車行駛了,鐵路上積著厚厚的雪,車站十分寂靜,和週五晚上喧囂的東京有著截然不同的氣氛。坐了兩個小時巴士的K和J迫不及待的下車,像小孩子在路邊玩雪。

看雪的目標達成,但下一個目標就沒有這麼容易完成了。要看到日出時的逆富士,不但位置和時間要正確、湖面也需要夠平靜才能夠拍到漂亮的倒影。因此也只能盡人事,剩下就看神仙大人想不想滿足我們一覽絕景的心願。上網做些功課後,K和J選擇在湖畔另一側的「長崎公園」捕捉日出時分的逆富士。而我們的移動手段,在這個沒有公車、計程車的時刻,當然只剩下徒步。

河口湖站
河口湖站

長崎公園所在地

根據Google Map顯示,從車站到長崎公園徒步需要3小時左右,但距離日出的6點還有很長一段時間,因此K和J先晃到附近的ガスト家庭餐廳吃點宵夜打發時間。一路上讓我們驚嘆的是天上數不盡的星星!路旁除了民宅沒有任何店家,路燈十分稀少,甚至要開啟手電筒才能安全地前進。這樣光害極小的環境下,連平常不會注意到的星星都顯得在閃閃發亮。

包含著冬天代表星座 – 獵戶座的這片浩瀚星空,實在讓人著迷。但這裡K提醒大家,觀星的同時,也要稍微顧及腳下安全。尤其在冬天這種路上會結冰的日子,一不小心就會在滑溜溜的冰上摔跤,摔在硬邦邦的路面上幸運的話會很痛、不幸運的話是會骨折的!K就是幸運的苦主之一,還請各位多注意。

用手機拍下的河口湖的獵戶座

歇息片刻後再啟程

在冰上摔完的K,過了10分鐘後終於比較不痛了,於是兩人繼續小心翼翼的前往ガスト。在ガスト我們隨便點了幾道宵夜,聊聊天、滑滑手機翻翻書本,硬是打發時間到打烊的1點半。爾後,沒有預訂住宿、也不打算花住宿費的兩人又輾轉到了一家空空的便利商店,在那裏輪流小睡片刻,等待再次啟程的時間。

此時外頭的氣溫是讓人印象深刻的攝氏-12度,赤手拿著手機拍照甚至會覺得手指有點僵硬。只有攜帶輕裝備的兩人實在不想在這種寒冬的夜晚,在外頭吹風受凍。

河口湖周邊道路
夜晚的河口湖周邊道路
日出前富士山的蹤影
漆黑一片中富士山的蹤影

終於熬到了啟程的時刻3點半。K和J又步上冰天雪地中的道路,越過了冷冷清清的橋,走在沒有車子的道路中央。在寂靜的凌晨,能聽到的只有兩人的腳步聲,以及浪花輕輕拍打著湖畔的聲響。一路上沒有什麼建築物,只有些許的路燈和樹林,若不是看到雪上的腳印甚至還有些懷疑是否真的有人會徒步通過這些地方。

不知道過了多久,天色逐漸轉亮。此時兩人看見遠方有個黑影直直逼近,還以為是不審者,後來才發現是當地的阿伯晨跑的身影。確認一下時間,5點52分,距離日出的預定時間只剩下約8分鐘。正當K和J開始擔心趕不趕得上時,向左一望,微微的看見了斗笠形的黑影。仔細一看,真的是富士山

日出時分

走了2.5小時,終於看見目標的兩人欣喜若狂的加緊腳步,最終在日出前一刻抵達長崎公園。此時已經可以瞥見帶著專業攝影器材的叔叔,熟練的組裝著設備的模樣,看來我們是找對地方捕捉美景了。

太陽漸漸升起,把東邊的天空染成橘黃色,富士山的輪廓也逐漸變得清晰。第一次看到完整的富士山,而且還是在最美的破曉時分,K和J心中滿是感動。本應是氣溫最低的清晨時分,似乎也因為心中的雀躍而被加溫,本來凍僵的手指,也開始為了紀錄下最美的風景而靈活的達成使命。

日出河口湖全景

日出時的富士山,絕對有實力名列世界絕景之一。在K和J眼裏,更因為有長時間的煎熬與等待,而襯托出絕景的壯闊。儘管當天風比較強,湖面上的波紋讓我們無法在日出時捕捉到漂亮的倒影,但也心滿意足了。帶著大砲的叔叔可能也因為發現今天無法捕捉到完美的日出逆富士,就先行撤退了。兩人便取代叔叔的位置,待了一個多小時享受著在湖邊欣賞富士山的悠閒早晨。

日出的富士山
日出的富士山
湖面較平靜時的逆富士

早上7點,天空完全亮了,早晨的天氣萬里無雲。回程路上,大大的富士山始終都在我們身旁,就像在送客回車站一般。在便利商店吃點早餐填飽肚子後,向富士山和美好的雪景道別,我們搭上河口湖站的巴士返回東京。

五月多時又和家人重訪了一次河口湖,可惜那天下著小雨,富士山整天躲在雲後不賞臉。這又讓K更加感到自己當天的幸運,儘管衝動行事、沒有任何計劃和準備,甚至也沒有查天氣預報,卻還是能見到富士山破曉時分最美麗的姿態。現在回想這段故事,還是很難相信自己曾經做過這麼瘋狂的事。致青春

我的其他旅遊相關文章

海膽便當

【岩手・久慈】朝聖小海女+爆吃海膽之旅

2019年第一次在日本過暑假,RK趁機規劃了一場國內旅遊。這次的目的地是日劇「小海女」的聖地岩手縣久慈市!在當地除了海膽還嚐到了好多美味的海鮮,也被超級美的海岸療癒了身心。這3天2夜真的是暑假最美好的回憶之一。

RK

哈囉!我們是RK!我們是住在東京的大學生,喜歡唱歌、假日出去旅遊、吃好吃的日本美食。歡迎來用我們的視角一起看日本:)

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